Before any of this began, the cottage was much as it had been left. This is how it came back: room by room, with the bones kept.
Before any of this began, the cottage was much as it had been left. The downstairs room (the one that’s now a bedroom) was called the good room. It was kept for visitors, the kind of room that hardly ever got sat in. At the other end, what’s now the kitchen was a bedroom.
We used to come up at the weekends and try to make the place feel like ours; one night we rigged up a cinema in the sitting room with an old white sheet pegged onto the curtain rail. Poppy and Daisy, the dogs, made themselves comfortable.
The kitchen came out first: stainless steel sink, stainless steel countertops, the 1970s lot of it. Underneath the sink we found the bracket that had held it all up: an iron support DJ himself had welded, probably in an afternoon at the forge across the road. It went out with the rest. There wasn’t a place for it in the new kitchen, and we weren’t trying to keep everything. But finding it was a quiet moment in the dust.
Then the walls between the rooms came down, and the cottage started to read as one space instead of several small ones.
The lads were chipping plaster off the kitchen wall in preparation for dry lining when they realised what was underneath. Steven rang me (I was in Izmir at the time) to show me the stone they’d uncovered. He suggested we clean it down, repoint it, and make it the feature wall of the kitchen. We did.
As they kept going, chipping further down the same wall, the little window revealed itself: a small one, deep-set, sealed up years ago and forgotten about. We refurbished it: made it functional again, took the glass out, and boxed off the back to turn it into a wine store. Because we couldn’t put cupboards in front of it, we built a window seat around it instead. It’s where you can sit now to keep whoever’s cooking company. The cushion went out to Turkey to be covered.
The cottage was telling us things, and we were learning to listen.
Once the stripping was done, we started putting back. The roof now carries reclaimed railway sleepers, brought in not to look new, but to feel as if they’d always been there.
Outside, a dry-stone wall along one edge of the cottage really had been there. For years. Hidden under overgrowth and weather. We just uncovered it and pointed what needed pointing. Some of the bones we brought in; some were already there. We tried to make all of them legible.
The new kitchen is birch ply, not oak, not painted MDF, not what you usually see in a country kitchen. The units came from Hillside Kitchens, with no visible handles, so the birch is what you see. The floor under them is ceramic tile that looks like timber planking, with a heated mat beneath. The countertops are quartz from MTM.
The craft moment was Tony Kelly. Tony is a next-door neighbour and a master carpenter. He scribed the quartz countertop into the stone feature wall, fitting a straight slab against uneven stone, with no gap. It’s the kind of work that gets noticed only by people who’ve tried to do it themselves.
Above the countertops, Alistair made the barn doors, a sliding pair that cover the working shelves behind. A country touch in an otherwise modern kitchen.
The kitchen got its paint from Henry Graham and Joe Coll. Henry is a cousin of mine who lives directly across the road; Joe took the job on with him. They aren’t plasterers, they’re painters, and the cottage was painted by people who’d been looking at it their whole lives.
Outside, we turned to what we’ve always called the Street. Other people might call it a courtyard, or a drive: the open space between the cottage and the outbuildings. The Street has always had stone on it as long as I can remember. But the place is surrounded by tall evergreen trees, and every year leaves and broken branches would blow down onto the stone. Decade by decade, it built up. By the time we got to it, the Street needed redoing in full.
The new gravel and the bigger stones laid in among it came from Cranford Quarry, which is practically next door. There’s something right about a place being rebuilt with stone from down the road.
Mulroy Bay is just across the road from the cottage, fifty metres of road and a strip of trees away. But for years, that strip of trees was a thick evergreen hedge tall enough to hide the water completely. From inside the cottage, you wouldn’t have known there was a bay there at all. The same trees that were burying the Street were also blocking the view.
At a later stage in the work, we had the hedge thinned out. The bay came back. Now, sitting in the cottage, you look out across the road and the water is right there.
(Poppy and Daisy were on the gravel, watching the whole operation.)
The shower floor is made of pebbles from Trá na Rosann, a beach up the coast from the cottage. We went out one afternoon with the girls and picked them up by hand, one at a time (the right sizes, the right shapes, the smooth ones) until we had enough to lay underfoot. Now the shower floor is a small piece of that afternoon.
A tree came down on the Mulroy estate. We got a piece of it. The window ledge you can see on the left as you turn from the lounge into the kitchen, on the way to the bathroom: that’s the tree. Not bought timber. A tree from up the road.
Some of the things in the cottage didn’t start in Donegal. Nihal had a house in Bollington, in England, and when we were getting the cottage ready, she brought some of the furniture from there, pieces she couldn’t bring herself to give up. It looked right in the cottage straight away, and it’s still there today.
The first time we sat in the finished kitchen together was Christmas. My dad came up from Limerick. Nihal cooked, and he was the perfect co-pilot to the chef: passing things across, talking the whole time, doing the kitchen things that don’t quite count as cooking but keep everything moving.
Around them the birch units, the stone wall, the window seat with its bottles behind, the heat coming off the range. The cottage was lived in.
The cottage sleeps a family: the downstairs bedroom that was the good room, the attic master under the slopes, the bunk room for children. The kitchen is the heart of it now, the way it wasn’t before. The bay is back across the road.
It’s one of three stays on the smallholding, and it shares the sauna and the games room with the cabins.